Top taters

Photographs by Donna Rickles

WINNER - Susie’s Drive-In 4126 W Montrose Ave, 773-283-6544
The Greg Louganis of dives, this 24-hour joint is a spud smorgasbord, serving up an Idaho farm ’s worth of twice-fried, crunchy, skin-on, creamy-interior fries doused with everything from chili and Cheez Whiz to chicken. But it’s the simple, unadorned version dusted with a sweet spice (think Vitner’s barbecue chips) that makes the biggest splash.

#2 - Artopolis 306 S Halsted St, 312-559-9000
These simple, crispy, thin-cut spuds served in a paper-doily cone with a side of Dijon and chunky feta are so irresistible, you’ll pop them like you’re Courtney Love in a painkiller factory.

#3 - Hopleaf 5148 N Clark St, 773-334-9851
Chicago’s original gastropub serves the perfect Belgian beer chaser: a cocktail shaker of crunchy frites served with pungent aioli.

#4 - Max’s 5754 N Western Ave, 773-989-8200
The “ghetto fries”—covered with oozy Merkt’s cheddar cheese, Italian beef gravy, onion slivers, sweet barbecue sauce and fiery giardiniera—are a hangover helper in a basket.

#5 - Pop’s Italian Beef 10337 S Kedzie Ave, 773-239-1243
The fries at this South Side beef stand are served finger-burning hot and topped with nothing but salt. They most closely conjure, but easily surpass, those served at the Golden Arches.