Cold blooded

Photo: Peter DiAntoni

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Maine has its lobster, Chicago has its deep dish and Milwaukee has custard. By definition, frozen custard is almost identical to ice cream, only egg yolks are added to the sugar and cream, and less air is whipped into the mixture, so it’s denser. But as Milwaukeeans know, it’s so much more than that, and all custard is not made equal.

My first stop was Leon’s(3131 S 27th St, 414-383-1784), which hasn’t changed since it opened in 1942—the big, flashing sign beckons like the lights on a Ferris wheel. The building is irresistible, so it would be a shame if the custard  (pictured) didn’t live up to the space. But it does—in fact, this is the custard after which all other custards should model themselves, an impossibly dense concoction packed with the flavor of sweet cream. It is so delicious, so magical, that it must have been flown down to Earth by custard angels.

If Leon’s was going to have any competition, it was going to be from Kopp’s(kopps.com for locations). Both are widely recognized as the two best custard shops in Milwaukee, and any Milwaukee citizen worth his salt has taken a side.

Aesthetically, the two places couldn’t be more different: Kopp’s takes a modernist tack with acres of gleaming stainless steel and slate—a bold counterpoint to Leon’s old-school charm. The custard has its differences, too: Kopp’s is softer, quicker to melt, a little sweeter. I don’t fault those who side with Kopp’s. But these people don’t really love custard; they like thick ice cream, which is what Kopp’s tastes like.

Two custard shops down, and I was starting to move slower, my tongue numb. But there was one place left: Gilles Frozen Custard(7515 W Bluemound Rd, 414-453-4875), which opened in 1938 as Milwaukee’s first custard shop. The custard here doesn’t touch Leon’s. But there’d be no Leon’s to love if Gilles hadn’t paved the way. So for that reason alone, I thought it was pretty sweet.