Hat, dance

Seeing double

Blurred vision aside, the lines between tequila and mezcal are clear.

PHOTO: SHMURA CAMPBELL

All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Both are made from agave plants, but many criteria distinguish these hangover-inducing liquids, says Juan Guzman, tequila sommelier at Adobo Grill (1610 N Wells St, 312-266-7999; 2005 W Division St, 773-252-9990). Most tequila is made from the blue maguey (agave) plant grown only in a government-approved region of Mexico appropriately named Tequila. Mezcal, on the other hand, may be made with many different types of agave. As a rule, Guzman says the best mezcals, like the Del Maguey Santo Domingo Albarradas (pictured; left, $64 at Sam’s Wines & Spirits, 1720 N Marcey St, 312-664-4394), are made in Oaxaca, Mexico, and labeled “single village,” which means it’s additive-free and is produced from one type of agave with artisanal techniques.

Tastewise, mezcal has an earthier, smokier flavor than tequila because mezcal producers roast the agave piñas (the pineapplelike heart of the plant) for days in an old-fashioned fire pit and distill the juices once. Meanwhile, tequila producers use modern brick ovens or pressurized autoclaves and distill the juices at least twice, resulting in a slightly sweeter, cleaner taste. While most mezcal is not aged, tequila is available in an array of pricey aged varieties, from reposado (aged two months to a year) to extra anejo (five years or more). For a surefire way to get a quality tequila like Casa Noble reposado (pictured, above right; $46 at Sam’s Wines & Spirits) and avoid cheap “mixto tequilas” that are diluted with sugar and water, Tequila native Guzman says you should “make sure the label says 100 PERCENT BLUE AGAVE. What that says is that inside this bottle is pure tequila—the good stuff.”