COOK COUNTY Joe Salatin has a beef with corporate farming.

Readers of Fast Food Nation and The Omnivore’s Dilemma may already have heard everything Food, Inc. has to offer, but this is the kind of muckraking we should see more often: sensibly argued, far-reaching, concerned with unasked, everyday questions. What’s startling here is not just the portrait of corporate farming—for the record, the movie isn’t pushing an animal-rights or vegetarian agenda—but the suggestion of the food industry’s stranglehold on government. Most alarmingly, Kenner proposes that companies have sought to control the way we can speak about food (by dragging out frivolous, expensive lawsuits). That revelation should frighten anyone who eats.

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