Top nosh

French twist Think that frou-frou meringue desserts like baked Alaska and vacherin are for old French ladies with no teeth? Well, they are, but in the hands of one sixtyblue chef Martial Noguier, they're lighter, fresher and more Chicago than ever. His rhubarb vacherin tosses the traditional stacked meringue rings seen in most versions out the window and starts with locally grown rhubarb cooked into a marmalade with strawberries. The tart base is topped with creamy-soft vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, dried strawberries and a Pick-Up Sticks–like cluster of pencil-shaped meringue. You'll be beating the old ladies off with a stick. 1400 W Randolph St between Ada St and Ogden Ave (312-850-0303).—Heather Shouse