Top nosh

Seeing green Like most seasonal chefs, Blackbird's Paul Kahan waits in limbo this time of year; he's out of root vegetables but still has nothing green from local farmers. So he broke down and got some green garlic from Southern California. The baby garlic with long green stalks is sweeter and more delicate than mature garlic. Kahan tosses them into a pan with a little onion, leek and potato, purees it with water to create a soup, then adds olive-oil–poached rock shrimp, pumpernickel croutons and parsley froth. It'll only be on the menu for a couple more weeks, and then Kahan is on to greener pastures. 619 W Randolph St between Jefferson and DesplainesSts (312-715-0708).—Heather Shouse