Fantastic Four

Back when you could still describe the southern tip of the South Loop as up and coming, restaurant developers Jerry Kleiner and Matt O'Malley were the only guys with the stones to set up shop. But suddenly, their pioneering eateries (Gioco, Opera, Chicago Firehouse) have some real competition, the newest of which is Cuatro.

A nuevo Latino concept, Cuatro is the first restaurant for the four Navarro siblings. They may be rookies, but they knew enough to spend some dough on slick touches for the giant space (an eight-foot saltwater aquarium behind the bar offers a glimpse of the kitchen) and to enlist real talent at the stoves. Chef Bryan Garcia cooked at Manhattan's popular Rosa Mexicano and was executive pastry chef at Adobo Grill, and sous chef Chris Barron served as chef de cuisine at Opera. Their menu is loaded with such interesting options, it almost competes with the crowd.

Almost. On a recent weekend, the place looked like a Benneton ad from the '80s: twenty- and thirtysomethings of every color, shape and size, both gay and straight. The only sore thumb in the eclectic vibe was the Latin-lite tunes, but owner Matt Navarro claims that DJs and Latin combos will set the tone once the liquor license arrives in December.

But you'll forget about the elevator music once you dig into the food. Instead, your attention will be captured by dishes like seafood cocktail done "Acapulco-style": ultrafresh shrimp, tuna chunks, baby octopus and oysters in chilled, zingy tomato broth with ripe avocado and bright pico de gallo. Crispy flautas filled with tender agave-roasted beef are perfectly paired with caramelized onion salsa and cool cilantro crema. Fans of classic American bean-and-ham soup will love Cuatro's take: lentils, bacon and chipotle sofrito (a classic sauce base of green peppers, onions, garlic, herbs, annatto seeds and pork fat), with tiny caramelized plantains for sweet contrast.

Entrée options are vast, each as tempting and as carefully composed as the next. Warm chayote salad, guajillo chili sauce and a moist tamale flank the poblano-and-cheese–stuffed chicken breast. Impeccably tender beer-braised short rib gets high-grade, sofrito-kissed Mexican rice, charred green onions and tangy tomatillo-avocado salsa. Bouillabaisse gets a shot in the arm with their Brazilian-style moqueca. Brimming with littleneck clams, diver scallops, tender grouper and juicy butterflied shrimp, the fish stew seamlessly balances sweet coconut milk and bright tomato flavors. Crisp, garlicky tostones (fried green plantains) and moist white rice are so ideal for soaking up the broth, you'll wonder why this combo isn't copyrighted.

Desserts wow just the same: House-made pistachio-praline ice cream is an expert match for warm plantain crepes, and the sweet-potato cake is perfect with an orange-mango sauce and coconut sorbet.

Cuatro may be the new kid on the block, but the impressive food proves they seem to be right at home.

Cuatro2030 S Wabash Ave between Cullerton and 21st Sts (312-842-8856). El: Red to Cermak-Chinatown. Bus: 21, 24, 29, 62 (24 hrs). Open: Brunch (Sun), lunch (Mon–Fri), dinner. Average main course: $18. BYOB.