Risky business

Jack Johnson, the first African-American heavyweight boxing champ, was a risk-taker. He opened a restaurant in Chicago's Custom House Levee District (now dubbed Printers Row) at a time when blacks weren't even allowed in most dining rooms. He strolled that neighborhood's streets with his pet tiger to show off that he was immune to danger. And now, almost 100 years later, just around the corner from where these legends were born, chef Shawn McClain continues his risk-taking culinary career with the unveiling of the steakcentric Custom House.

When McClain launched Wicker Park's Zenned-out, Asian-tinged Spring amid 4am pick-up bars and hot-dog stands, he beat gentrification to the punch. Next, he chose a rocky strip of West Town's Chicago Avenue to erect Green Zebra, a vegetarian's nirvana. And now, when the city's hottest chefs are grabbing the spotlight with envelope-pushing creations and avant-garde cuisine, McClain opens a steakhouse in a neighborhood that's not exactly a dining destination, in a city that's not hurting for more meat-and-potatoes affairs.

But thank God he did. Custom House isn't your sugar daddy's steakhouse; it's a foodie's steakhouse. You want a dry martini, Sinatra tunes and a bulky, butcher-coated server who's thick as thieves with Ditka, look elsewhere. You want fresh fruit–infused cocktails, razor-thin cured sturgeon, short rib–stuffed ravioli and portions not intended for small countries, you're in the right place.

And, of course, there's steak. Expertly prepared bone-in rib eye, prime sirloin and skirt steak, each flavorfully seasoned and served with seasonal sides such as mushroom carpaccio, orange and vanilla–laced salsify, sautéed winter greens, and roasted baby beets and baby carrots. Attention to detail spreads throughout the menu: A starter of lightly cured sturgeon gets a decidedly Eastern Euro prep, rather than served sashimi-style, accompanied by apple matchsticks, perfumey juniper berries and two wedges of pumpernickel toast. Perfectly braised baby lamb arrives in a small cast-iron crock, with thick rounds of buttery-soft fennel sausage, al dente cannellini beans, roasted carrots and turnips, and is finished with a sprinkle of toasted bread crumbs for a completely delicious take on cassoulet.

The wine list matches the service: not show-offy but sufficient. Around 20 well-chosen global glasses are organized from lightest to heaviest; interesting, fairly priced bottles abound; and a page of small- production wines offer big spenders something other than steakhouse go-tos like Opus One. Distinction carries over into the design as well, eschewing the warm-and-worn look for a sleek and simple gray-and-red palette of timeless decor. That's a good thing because someday in the future, more steakhouses will look—and act—like Custom House. And McClain can say he took the first risk.

Custom House500 S Dearborn St at Congress Pkwy (312-523-0200). El: Brown, Orange, Purple (rush hrs) to Library. Open: Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Average main course: $24.