Rome, if you want to

Several sections of Chicagoland proclaim themselves “Little Italy,” and around 24th and South Oakley Streets, they go one better with the self-ascribed title “Heart of Italy.” This weekend, June 16–18, this small chunk of what used to be a much larger Italian community gets a makeover for the Sorrento Cheese Festa Pasta Vino festival, with puppet shows, costumed Venetian carnivalgoers and a scaled-down working replica of the Trevi Fountain helping morph the neighborhood into a Florentine-type market space. Local restaurants break out all kinds of eats and it’s all free, starting at 5pm on Friday and noon on Saturday and Sunday. If the fest whets your appetite for some truly authentic Italian fare, use this guide to find the best regional dishes in town.

Veneto
Venice is a seaport town, so seafood of all kinds is prevalent. Cinnamon and cloves are also clues you’re eating Venetian; in the 14th century, the area was big in the spice trade.
Classic dish: Bacala, cod that’s been salted and dried to firm the flesh and concentrate flavors
Get it at: Tufano’s Vernon Park Tap (1073 W Vernon Park Pl between Carpenter and Aberdeen Sts, 312-733-3393), a classic Chicago joint.

Puglia
Here, you’ll find some of the best rapini in the boot, as well as durum (“hard”) wheat, the principal crop in this rich farming region and the central ingredient in pasta.
Classic dish: Rapini and beans—a superb blend of slightly bitter Italian broccoli and creamy cannellini beans—is a masterpiece of simplicity.
Get it at: Jimmy’s Place (7411 Madison St, Forest Park, 708-771-7476), where they’re also known for their braciole, a steak rolled and stuffed with pine nuts, Parm and parsley.

Sicilia
On this island, veggies rule. In Palermo, the region’s principal city, you might find some fish in the stew as well. Couscous is another Sicilian staple, a gift of the Moors.
Classic dish: Caponata, hearty vegetable stew much like ratatouille
Get it at: 312 Chicago (136 N LaSalle St at Randolph St, 312-696-2420), where it’s ironic to find this peasant food in a room full of movers and shakers.

Campania
Here you’ll find Naples, the birthplace of pizza and creator of the famed Margherita version (tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil). Volcanic soils make for tasty San Marzano tomatoes, which also translate to perfect pasta sauces.
Classic dish: Spaghetti alla puttanesca—anchovy, black olive and tomato sauce–topped pasta—originated in brothels as a quick-fix for workers who had to eat fast and get back to it (puttanesca translates to whore).
Get it at: Bruna’s (2424 S Oakley Ave between 24th Pl and 24th St, 773-254-5550), a gem in the Heart of Italy.

Lazio
In the centuries-old Roman Jewish neighborhood of Trastevere you’ll find stunningly simple dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara (pasta with guanciale, or cured pig cheek, pecorino, black pepper and egg).
Classic dish: Artichokes, sometimes dressed with bread crumbs, though frequently straight-up with a spritz of lemon
Get it at: Café Spiaggia, (980 N Michigan Ave at Oak St, 312-280-2750), where you’ll pay ten bucks for wood-roasted artichokes, but you’ll be very happy.

Toscana
Some attribute this area’s affection for meat to Brits on Grand Tour who, hankering for home, lusted for beef. Spinach is also popular, and adding it to any dish makes it “Fiorentino,” a reference to the region’s capital city of Florence.
Classic dish: Bistecca a la Fiorentina, a thick grilled porterhouse steak seasoned only with salt and pepper
Get it at: Il Mulino (1150 N Dearborn St between Elm and Division Sts, 312-440-8888), but only if your stomach is empty and your credit card fully loaded.

Emilia-Romagna
Farmlands—ranging from grape fields to pig farms—take up a huge chunk of this region’s land. This translates to real prosciutto (Parma) and real balsamic vinegar (Modena).
Classic dish: Parmagiano-Reggiano, true Parmesan cheese that’s as far from powdery processed crap as you could imagine
Get it at: La Bocca della Verita (4618 N Lincoln Ave between Wilson and Eastwood Aves, 773-784-6222), which frames shaved Parm with green apples and celery—pretty much an ideal way to savor it.

Lombardia
Milanese-style risotto gets a dose of saffron (a costly spice wealthier Northerners could afford) and the sweet bread panettone is made with a heap of butter, a staple supposedly invented in nearby Lodi.
Classic dish: Osso buco—veal shank braised until fork-tender, served with the marrow-filled bone and garnished with gremolata (lemon, parsley and garlic)
Get it at: Gene and Georgetti (500 N Franklin St at Illinois St, 312-527-3718), where it’s served only for lunch on Fridays.