Pops for Champagne / Cru Café & Wine Bar

Photo: Donna Rickles

Pops for Champagne

Cru Café & Wine Bar

They say champagne goes with everything. The bubbles wash flavors off the tongue like Soft Scrub on porcelain; the unparalleled acidity can hold up even to steak. This is a good thing, because at Pops for Champagne, which just moved into its new location inside Tree Studios, you’ll likely only be able to afford one glass.

“We’ve just been served another amuse-bouche,” my companion said sarcastically after a long (but narrow) plate of prosciutto, white anchovy and hard-boiled quail eggs was set down in front of us. But these were not complimentary little bites; these little bites cost us $10. Portions were consistently small (one exception was the chicken confit, a hearty dish that remained a little dry even though it was in a tasty shimeji mushroom broth), but it drove home the fact that Pops is not meant to be a dinner destination. Instead, the sleek space—complete with a jazz club downstairs and floor-to-ceiling windows that passersby unabashedly peer into—aims simply to feed you while you feed your champagne habit. (A habit you’d be wise to indulge in by the bottle; five of the seven by-the-glass options cost more than $15). Many of these light bites are successful: I particularly enjoyed the thin squares of hamachi doused in lemon and hot mustard; the plump, briny Kumamoto oysters; and the tiny cubes of sesame oil–drizzled bluefin tuna. Garlic, pesto and tomatoes did little to hide the fishy taste of pan-roasted mussels, and the lump crab–and–potato sandwiches were boring. But when I hit a disappointing dish, I simply had more bubbly—that seemed to do the trick.

For a more balanced emphasis on wine and food, the recently reopened Cru lives up to its “café” moniker. The 275-bottle wine list is matched by an equally large menu offering both noshes and entree-sized plates. Earth tones, ornate original ceilings and fireplaces create an atmosphere so cozy that you can’t help but order lush red wines and hearty comfort foods.

On one visit, our server looked like a young Liza Minnelli and was almost as bubbly; naturally, she recommended the sparkling flight of a sweet prosecco, dry rosé and rich French sparkler. Sparkling wine and fried food being such a good pair, we ordered the light, fluffy artichoke beignets. The duck confit, the other app we ordered, was a dry disappointment. A double-fisted beef dish paired an almost overcooked flatiron steak with a luscious beef stew. Juicy pork chops arrived with sweet baked apples and warm pumpernickel-bread pudding; it doesn’t get much more comforting than that. In fact, it’s possible to get so wrapped up in the warmth of the food that wine becomes an afterthought. Those looking to drink their dinners (and drop some dough) should stick with Pops instead.

Cru Café & Wine Bar, 25 E Delaware St at Wabash Ave (312-337-4001). El: Red to Chicago. Bus: 36, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 151 (24 hrs). 11:30am–2am. Average main course: $20. Average glass of wine: $8.

Pops for Champagne, 601 N State St at Ohio St (312-266-7677). El: Red to Grand. Bus: 22 (24 hrs), 36, 65. Mon–Sat 3pm–2am. Average small plate: $14. Average glass of wine: $15.