Lobos Al Fresco Tacos

Photo: Martha Williams

A small order of pozole at Lobos Al Fresco Tacos arrives in a bowl big enough to empty out and wear as a hat—there is nothing small about it. But the plump kernels of hominy and shards of shredded pork inside the bowl are a different story: Flavorwise, the soup isn’t overpowering. The starchiness and pork flavor are subtle. But use the plate of accompaniments—limes, chiles, raw onions, cilantro—generously, and suddenly the soup has bright citrus tones, an herbal punch, the occasional sharp crunch of onion and hints of spice. In other words, it becomes as big as the bowl in which it’s served.

Not everything at Lobos arrives with a plate of flavor enhancers, though the unfortunate truth about this dinerish restaurant (located in the old Johnny’s Snack Shop space—it’s tough to shake that feel) is that many of the dishes could use one. But, somehow, some of the dishes that lack seasoning pass muster anyway. Guacamole is light on lime juice and serrano chiles, but its rich consistency and almost unfathomable freshness were a luscious expression of avocado. One note? Yes, but a strong one. Queso fundido is also short on spice (there was barely any chorizo to be found), yet it made for a satisfying taco nonetheless. The cochinita pibil (pictured) is not as lucky—there are only slight traces of the achiote sauce that could take the dish to a better place.

Considering how well most of the food here is cooked (not seasoned, mind you), it’s difficult to understand how the lack of flavor could get by chef-owner Yebel Shlimovitch, who has put in time at Frontera Grill and Chilpancingo. Perhaps he’s toning things down for an American palate. This, of course, is always a mistake, illustrated most pointedly by the carne asada taco, which was ruined by the iceberg lettuce adorning it, and the enchiladas de mole, which we ordered with mole verde. The chicken in the enchiladas was a little dry and sticky (as opposed to the chicken doused in guajillo sauce on an oversize sope), but the real issue was the mole. Or, rather, the lack of mole—there was so little of it in the dish that it was barely perceptible. Shlimovitch may think the mole’s strong flavor would turn people off; he’ll have a better restaurant on his hands when he realizes it actually has the opposite effect.—David Tamarkin

1732 N Milwaukee Ave at Wabansia Ave (773-486-3101). El: Blue to Western. Bus: 49 (24hrs), X49, 56. Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $9.