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  • Restaurants & Bars

    Food for the soul

    Take a leap of faith and satisfy your hunger, spiritual or otherwise.
    By Elizabeth Winkowski  Photos by Michael Jarecki

    Govinda’s Restaurant
    1716 W Lunt Ave, 773-973-0900

    Spiritual I.d.
    International Society for Krishna Consciousness

    Ideology
    The Krishna Consciousness movement blossomed in the West at the height of flower power. The movement’s roots lie in the Bhagavad-Gita, Hindu scriptures that contain the teachings of the deity Krishna. Chanting the maha-mantra and practicing bhakti yoga are two well-known forms of worship.

    Culinary offerings
    Eating animal flesh brings bad karma, devotees believe, because souls reside within all living beings. Food is formally offered to Krishna before it is served as spiritually charged prasadam. For $3.50, fill your tray with a variety of subjis: colorful, aromatic vegetable curries.

    Proselytizing factor
    Diners are welcome to stop in the temple on the first floor, where devotees sing, sway and dance as they chant Krishna’s name. In the restaurant, a mural depicts an equally lively scene of Lord Caitanya, an incarnation of Krishna, doing the same ritual 500 years ago. A boombox in the corner plays a cassette of melodic mantras.

    Soul Vegetarian East

    Soul Vegetarian East
    205 E 75th St, 773-224-0104

    Spiritual I.d.
    African Hebrew Israelites

    Ideology
    After the Romans pushed them out of Jerusalem in A.D. 70, the African Hebrew Israelites scattered. Many came to America as slaves and stayed until Chicago native and spiritual leader Ben Ammi led a group to Liberia and eventually Israel. Today, Dimona, Israel, is home to 2,000 members.

    Culinary offerings
    Citing Genesis 1:29 as the root of the group’s vegan diet, employee Tsadikiel B. Israel says the restaurant took traditional comfort foods and “associated them with a higher kind of love.” Fried seitan replaces fried chicken, while greens come sans pork and mac is combined with soy cheese.

    Proselytizing factor
    Unless you’re familiar with Leviticus 12:12 and notice that employees follow it by wearing loose clothing of natural fibers, you might miss this spot’s spiritual backbone. A framed article chronicles the group’s journey to Israel, and a poster advertises an upcoming trip to the homeland.

    Lake Side Café
    1418 W Howard St, 773-262-9503

    Spiritual I.d.
    Bhashkar Perinchery

    Ideology
    The core belief driving this Rogers Park spot is that inner silence is the key to joyful living. Meditative exercises—from dancing freely to sitting quietly—are said to help achieve present-moment awareness and reach a pleasant state of “nobodyness.”

    Culinary offerings
    Owner Amona Buechler believes humans who eat animals absorb the fear of dying in a state of panic. Hence, vegetarian micro-protein gives the popular “chicken” sandwich its authentic texture. Rich apple crumble and creamy pumpkin cheesecake are housemade.

    Proselytizing factor
    A set of stairs in back leads up to the Inner Metamorphosis University (IMU), which offers classes and workshops based on Perinchery’s teachings. Perinchery’s books and IMU info are discreetly on a table near the stairs, and the café hosts an inspirational movie night Thursdays.

    New Life Café
    1664 N California Ave, 773-384-0035

    Spiritual I.d.
    New Life Covenant Assemblies of God

    Ideology
    This active congregation is one of roughly 12,000 Assemblies of God across the country. The Pentecostal fellowship officially formed in 1914, but has its roots in the religious revivals of the late 19th century. Café manager Myra Velez says her beliefs come down to one thing: “love of Jesus Christ.”

    Culinary offerings
    No dietary restrictions limit the diverse, homey menu. Pair a rich café con leche with a hot egg sandwich for a popular morning duo, or grab chips and a pop to complement a panino or pork pastel for lunch.

    Proselytizing factor
    Beside a comfy bucket chair, a closed Bible rests on a tabletop, while black-and-white photos on the exposed brick walls reveal the many faces of New Life—from children in Peru, where the church sends missions, to local congregants praying or working on outreach programs that café profits fund.

    Victory’s Banner

    Victory’s Banner
    2100 W Roscoe St, 773-665-0227

    Spiritual I.d.
    Sri Chinmoy

    Ideology
    According to leader Sri Chinmoy, known as Guru, all human beings have an inner life that can be realized by meditating, which restaurant owner Pradhan Balter describes as “a quieting of the mind and a diving into the heart.” Before opening and after closing, the staff meditates together.

    Culinary offerings
    Guru taught that humans absorb animal consciousness whenever they eat meat, which can hinder reaching divine consciousness. The vegetarian menu includes steamy chai and thick French toast topped with peach butter, as well as savory wraps and Neatloaf.

    Proselytizing factor
    Photographs of the smiling Guru, some with Mother Theresa and Mikhail Gorbachev, line the walls, which also showcase Guru’s artwork. A well-stocked bookshelf houses many of Guru’s works, while a mounted TV often plays videos of Guru performing superhuman feats like squat-lifting a helicopter.


    Time Out Chicago / Issue 145 : Dec 6–12, 2007
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    Comments
    1. Posted by mbw on Fri, Dec 21, 07, at 9:35am

      The talented author describes an interesting sample of "higher power" fare in an easy-to-digest way.

      Flag as inappropriate

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