The beer geek

Photograph: Martha Williams

FESTIVUS FORTHARESTOFUS Be traditional and call them Christmas beers, go PC and say holiday beers, or hedge your bets and just call them winter warmers. But since seasonal brews have so many added spices, you might as well call them fruitcake in a bottle. That’s fine for some, but not really my thing, which is why I really like Piece’s Festivus. Brewmaster Jonathan Cutler not only snubs tradition by naming his concoction after the famous Seinfeld holiday “for the rest of us,” but he leaves spices out altogether and instead coaxes a maple syrup–like sweetness from this strong, dark, Belgian-style ale with a touch of toasted malts in the finish. Bring some dry-roasted almonds into the brewpub for a perfect pairing (the pizza on offer would clash), or just come on the kind of snowy night that hefty beers are made for and suck it down solo. But go quickly—this annual release is usually gulped up by the end of January. $6. 1927 W North Ave between Wolcott and Winchester Aves (773-772-4422).