Hot pockets

Photograph: Martha Williams

Never underestimate the importance of doing one thing and doing it right. Just ask Carlos Escalante, who’s following that directive at his newly opened and aptly named Lito’s Empanadas. The storefront shop, like Escalante, is small (“Lito” is short for Carlito, which means “small Carlos”), with just five seats at the window counter and a menu of nothing but empanadas. For now, there are a half-dozen varieties of the crispy stuffed savory pastries, including a standout filled with beef, olives, raisins, onion, tomato and potato. And while Escalante may not have a culinary background—he formerly managed an auto-parts shop—he does have the empanada know-how, first learning the basics from a friend of his mother’s in his native Colombia, then perfecting his recipes over the last two years while using friends and family as guinea pigs. Now we’re the ones happy to be pigs. 2566 N Clark St between Wellington Ave and Deming St (773-857-1337).

—Lisa Shames