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  • Restaurants & Bars

    Three-way

    What local chefs are doing with pickling
    By Hayley Bierkle
    Photographs by: Brendan Lekan

    Jams? Been there. Chutneys? Done that. But playing with pickling methods is the latest local attempt to inject fruit flavors into dishes until more fresh stuff rolls in. When Boka chef Giuseppe Tentori was creating a new squid dish, he “cranked Rage Against the Machine and got fired up.” It may not inspire modern-day Zapatistas but the resulting stuffed squid wakes up the palate with a spicy, acidic flavor thanks to its pineapple pickled in rice-wine vinegar. (1729 N Halsted St between North Ave and Willow St, 312-337-6070.)


    Pickling the bananas for May Street Market’s jicama spring roll is a quick fix for chef Alex Cheswick. The bananas are pickled à la minute: Once the order hits the kitchen, the diced fruit gets dunked in vinegar seasoned with sugar and a sachet of star anise, clove and allspice for about three minutes. Then they’re mixed with diced avocado and plated with jicama spring rolls, quinoa salad and a tamarind-soy broth. The fresh, fruity and completely vegan dish should help balance your veal sweetbread roulade for the next round. (1132 W Grand Ave at May St, 312-421-5547.)


    Pastry chef Tim Dahl knew he wanted to add a dessert of dates, bananas and chestnuts to Blackbird’s menu. But those are some powerful flavors, so to balance the richness of the chestnut financier and the sweetness of the bananas, the dates are pickled in chestnut honey and white balsamic vinegar. The resulting slightly sour dates add just the right acidity to pull the flavors together, while a scoop of banana ice cream completes the package. (619 W Randolph St between Jefferson and Desplaines Sts, 312-715-0708.)


    Time Out Chicago / Issue 156 : Feb 21–27, 2008
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    Comments
    1. Posted by Ryan on Wed, Mar 05, 08, at 3:30pm

      You always loved food Hayley!

      Flag as inappropriate
    2. Posted by Tee Kay on Mon, Feb 25, 08, at 7:26pm

      Who knew pickling and three-way in the same thought could ever sound so enticing. Great, now I'm HONGRY.

      Flag as inappropriate
    3. Posted by Mick Jagger on Thu, Feb 21, 08, at 10:02pm

      Phenomenal recap of some delicious sounding dishes! I would like to pickle these write-ups and serve them warm, over Gourmet magazine's editorial staff! Just reading them made me taste the ornate TLC each dish receives and salivate over my keyboard.

      Flag as inappropriate
    4. Posted by Kyle on Thu, Feb 21, 08, at 7:17pm

      I never realized pickling was responsible for anything other than my mom's gurkens and cauliflower...thanks so much for pointing out these awesome pickling techniques and tasty dishes. YUM!

      Flag as inappropriate

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