Top nosh

GIVE IT A SHOT The word Jell-O may call to mind Grandma’s artificial molds—or worse, Cubs fans gone wild—but Natalie Zarzour, who co-owns Pasticceria Natalina with her husband, Nick, explains what’s really going on with the gelo di melone ($3.50) she recently started selling. The old-fashioned Italian dessert, made by puréeing fresh fruit and setting it with gelatin, might be “wiggly and wobbly, but it’s not anything like Jell-O,” she says. Zarzour makes a traditional version using puréed watermelon, but she’s also come up with two of her own twists: one with puréed cactus fruit and pomegranate juice, and another with housemade limoncello that’s then, as she describes it, “gellified.” And if a plastic cup is just not classy enough, call ahead and she’ll make an extra-fancy one for you in a flower mold. Whatever memories this treat conjures up, grab one fast: As soon as the warm weather drops off, the party’s over. $3.50 each at 5406 N Clark St between Balmoral and Catalpa Aves (773-989-0662).