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2009 Eat Out Awards
2009 Eat Out Awards Critics’ Picks
Photo: Aaron CoreyThe Comeback Kid
RYAN POLI OF PERENNIAL
We knew people who swore that Butter, despite its demise in 2007, was a fantastic restaurant. We weren’t quite as enthusiastic but thought its young chef, Ryan Poli, who had spent some time cooking in the avant-garde culinary belt of Spain, had potential. After Butter closed, Poli split for Scottsdale, Arizona, and it looked as if we’d never really see the kid hit his stride. Fast-forward to 2008, when Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm of BOKA lured him back to head up Perennial, a restaurant contemporary enough to let Poli play around a bit (yes, you might spot the occasional foam or wacky ingredient) but, perhaps thanks to its location an apple-toss from Green City Market, grounded enough to keep season and flavor at the forefront. Poli’s execution of pork belly is the best around, at once crispy and luscious, his airy black-truffle gnocchi defies gravity, and his sweet-salty-sticky Asian-style wings keep the whole experience from getting too la-di-da. Welcome back, chef. 1800 N Lincoln Ave, 312-981-7070.—Heather ShouseCritics’ Picks: Promo King | The Please Don’t Go Award | Most Unpretentious Pretentious Bar | The Best Way to Use Your Noodle Award | Biggest twits | The Comeback Kid | The Urban Oasis Award | The Lifetime Achievement Award | Best Elbow Rubbing | Best Place to Ogle Women | The Bigfoot Award | We’d like to thank the economy | Proof That Evolution Exists | A Blog-o You Can Trust | Recession-era reads | The Viagra Award for Staying Power | Best Revival Act | Thanks for the memories | Best Extra Value Meal Photo gallery | Readers’ Choice Awards | Critics’ Picks | Video from the ceremony
Time Out Chicago / Issue 215 : Apr 9–15, 2009
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