Hearty

Photo: Martha Williams

Pre-Food Network, the Hearty Boys, Steve McDonagh and Dan Smith, had a cheekier side (their catering company’s slogan was “Good stuff, not stiff, cute staff!”). On television they seemed to be scrubbed up a little (housewives don’t take to gays using the word “stiff” in the early afternoon hours, it seems). But now that the two are back in the kitchen, it’s clear that their sauciness is back—at least on the menu. They’ve turned their cooking school/TV studio, which has been serving an incomparable brunch for about a year, into a full-fledged restaurant, and the food is trailblazing-meets-trailer-park: Corn dogs feature rabbit sausages, the pork chop with applesauce comes with a fried duck egg, and the tuna casserole is made of ahi tuna and saffron cream. All of which has the promise to be interesting enough that you won’t notice the staff, no matter how cute it is. 3819 N Broadway, 773-244-9866.

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