2/8/10
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The most anticipated opening of the winter isn’t a fine-dining restaurant. It’s not even a restaurant. It’s a bar, located in the former Pontiac Café space, inspired by the Depression-era Bakersfield, California, scene. And if it’s getting a glut of attention, that’s because of who’s behind it: executive chef Paul Kahan (Blackbird, avec, the Publican) and a group of partners including Donnie Madia (the triumvirate and then some) and Terry Alexander (Danny’s Tavern, Sonotheque, etc). The crew tapped Justin Large, a former sous chef at avec, to turn out a streamlined menu of tacos (al pastor, fish, veggie) and they brought on Violet Hour’s Michael Rubel (pictured) as the spirits director. Rubel’s drinks program—American whiskey, small-batch tequila and a few cocktails like the Bakersfield Buck (Heaven Hill bourbon, lime and ginger beer)—is allegedly what the crew is talking about when they call the place “honky-tonk.” Call us crazy, but we think it’s probably not the drinks that make it honky-tonk, but rather the effect they have on people after they down them. 1531 N Damen Ave (773-235-4039).
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MIchael Rubel. You're my hero.
As described, this is a bar that serves some food items - not dissimilar in concept from what Mercadito tried (and failed) to do. Decor is plain and simple, too simple for my liking. Bar staff is knowledgeable, personable and nice to be around. Drinks are reasonably priced for the location. The tacos, the only food item I tried, are okay and maybe sightly better than that. I suspect things will only get better. A place to stop with friends who are in the neighborhood.