Aja

Ajasteak was the restaurant of stockbrokers’ dreams, a place where you could get vodka martinis, Wagyu steaks, all the California rolls that would fit in your stomach—and still be just blocks from Excalibur. Chicago didn’t get much more Vegas—until the new economy hit, of course. And so now Ajasteak has “reconcepted,” though “downsized” is more like it. Gone are the steaks, and in their place is more sushi (tuna rolls with crème fraîche come off as sophisticated, believe it or not) and an Asian-influenced menu that goes beyond Japan. Korea is represented (by way of Mexico) in tiny, tasty but oddly lukewarm Korean barbecue tacos, and Vietnam gets a shout-out in a pork bahn mi, which is saucy, sweet, but ultimately balanced by heat and fresh basil. The only problem with the sandwich? It doesn’t taste much like bahn mi. Then again, this shouldn’t be much of a surprise. If Aja was going for authenticity, it wouldn’t have a J in its name. Dana Hotel & Spa, 660 N State St, 312-202-6000.

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