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Tasting notes
(K)new
Photo: Martha WilliamsWhile those who consider themselves foodies might not understand Americans’ attraction to temples of poor-quality food, the one factor that can usually explain it is economics. The majority of people in this country don’t have the luxury of eating at the best restaurants. And when feeding a family at McDonald’s costs less than buying groceries and a special-occasion dinner at Applebee’s can be had for $20, discerning taste is a futile, not to mention privileged, argument.
But how do you explain the popularity of a restaurant serving a disappointing meal for two for $100? That’s what I asked myself at (K)new, where I overheard a man assuring our perfectly sweet server that his meal was “scrumptious.” I wondered if I was the only one in the room with moldy-tasting black truffles scattered around my crab-filled piquillo peppers.
I couldn’t have been the lone diner on the receiving end of a shredded potato “nest” fried in oil that seemed as though it needed changing. Did other people somehow score the plump, fresh mussels while my plate of pasta was given the ones that tasted a couple of days past their prime? And how did I end up with two flavorless venison chops as tough and leathery as Helen Thomas?
So maybe my scoop of caramel-goat-cheese gelato was somehow icy while everyone else was oohing and ahhing over better, creamier stuff. And maybe I was the sole diner thinking that the Sirius XM smooth jazz was better suited for a Viagra commercial. But when the bill arrived and I saw that this baffling meal was $100 (at a BYO, mind you), there’s just no way I was the only one reevaluating taste. 2556 W Fullerton Ave (773-772-7721).
Time Out Chicago / Issue 248 : Nov 26–Dec 2, 2009
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I had dinner at this restaurant two weeks ago and thought it was fab. I travel alot and get to eat at many restaurants all over the world. I had the venison (priced in the low $30.) and it was the best I've ever had! If you want to eat game, or other delicious dishes, I don't know many places in this city to find game dishes. I guess this reviewer must of had a cold and a lack of knowledge as to the price of game. If you had low quality tough venison, it also would have been gamy tasting.
I liked the review. Clever, and appreciated. PHLP, that comment was terrific. The one time that I was with Helen, not only was she tender, she smelled of freshly picked Honey Crisp apples.
I know this is going to seem like nitpicking, but Helen Thomas is actually very tender.
Oh please. There's nothing wrong with a review that (a) wonders what other people are tasting that she is not and (b) how food that is unimpressive can cost so much. It's called a review, people. That's what reviewers do. If you like the food, fine, but attacking a reviewer for actually doing her job is silly. That said, there always have been somewhat rabid followers of the proprietors of (k)new, starting with Think, which also always seemed much ado about not so much.
It is bad enough for a reviewer to insult the business they are writing about, but WHY (?) the patrons. I understand you are only one person but what personal bias do you have against these people? You wrote about the "sweet server" so why would you want to damage the restaurants reputation and put her out of a job? It is sad when a reviewer gets hooked into fads. Restaurants like (k)new will stand alone on creative individual pursuit and not follow all others that are "trendy".
How does a restaurant "reviewer" lack such food knowledge that the potato nest is cooked in extra virgin olive oil individually in a saute pan, new oil each time. Or how does a "reviewer" not understand that 2 seafood appetizers, 1 game and 1 seafood entree, plus 2 desserts will run you a $100. How does a "reviewer" call a restaurant to take pictures of food she never eats. How does an editor allow a picture of a food item not consumed by said "reviewer"? FYI food cost is the same, BYO or not.