Cheap eats

Photo: Martha Williams

Lincoln Park: Little Brother’s
DePaul students don’t need another Panda Express, and from the outside, that’s all Little Brother’s seems to amount to. Even once inside, the formulaic, Korean-tinged menu (diners are asked to pick a protein, a sauce and a salad to go on the side) and the fact that everything is served in a three-compartment Styrofoam box don’t help. But here’s the thing: Little Brother’s isn’t fast. It’s not slow, but everything is cooked to order, which takes a few minutes. And when the food arrives, both the short ribs and the chicken are lean and tender. The crunchy coleslaw sports enticing whispers of wasabi, and the cucumber salad is a refreshing foil to the crisp tofu. In short, it tastes like there’s a real chef in the kitchen. And that’s because there is. And what fast-food restaurant could sport that claim? 818 W Fullerton Ave (773-661-6482). Mon–Fri 11am–3:30pm and 4:30pm–10pm; Sat 11am–10pm (closed Sun). Average main course: $7.

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