Via Ventuno (CLOSED)
Prices
Average main course: $20.
Description
The man behind Marche, Red Light, Gioco, Carnivale and Victor Hotel has Kleinerized the Italian trattoria into a larger-than-life funhouse stuffed with color and tchotchkes, but the real star attraction is chef Jim Kilberg's simple food. The guy has a knack for sourcing, evident best in the antipasti table's salumi selection, but also executes his own creations with ease: Greaseless veal milanese gets saba-drizzled arugula while tender seabass is plated with perfect rapini and a balanced anchovy broth. The gorgeous, landscaped patio is a draw in warm weather; the flaky fig tart with fior de latte gelato lures anytime.
Hours
Dinner.