Ma & I

Description
We give them props for the pretty dining room, but we don't understand why the cooks at this new Thai spot are shy with spice. Maybe they figure the condo dwellers flooding these parts can't handle the heat, but when you can wipe your eyes with the papaya salad, even Grandma would be bored. Quick solution: Doctor up the handful of dishes that show potential—crispy salmon-basil rolls (request peanut sauce for dipping), shrimp noodle panang curry (ask to add veggies) and "tiger smiling," marinated grilled beef tenderloin cubes on a bed of watercress (specify medium-rare to medium). If you don't mind being the world's most annoying diner, you'll end up with some pretty good eats.